How to Calibrate a new installed Laptop Battery

How to Calibrate a new installed Laptop Battery

Laptop Battery Calibration

All newly-installed smart batteries should be calibrated as soon as possible. This helps your system get an accurate reading on the battery’s state of charge. Without calibration, the battery percentage reading will be incorrect, and your device may behave oddly—shutting down suddenly even though the new battery “reads” half charged, or working for hours when the battery reads nearly dead.

1. Charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least two more hours.

2. Unplug your laptop and use it normally to drain the battery.

3. Save your work when you see the low battery warning.

4. Keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery.

5.Wait at least five hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

 

It is recommended to perform this process periodically to ensure that the battery remains properly calibrated throughout its lifespan.

What’s calibration anyway?

For a good read on battery calibration, see this page. This article on fuel gauges is also instructive. What follows is our summation.

The fundamental problem is that there’s no reliable way to know exactly how much capacity a battery holds at any given moment. (It’s an electrochemical storage system that is always changing and decaying, and never behaves exactly the same way from one charge to the next.) About the only reliable way to gauge it is to fully charge the battery, then fully discharge it and measure the difference (a.k.a. coulomb counting). Obviously, we can’t do that every time we want to check the battery level, so we have to use indirect methods—storing all kinds of usage data and using that to calculate an estimated % state of charge from moment to moment. Over time, that calculation tends to drift and become less accurate. And on a brand-new battery, there’s not really any good data to work with, so the model will be way off. Calibration helps keep estimates accurate by setting new “full charge” and “full discharge” anchors in the battery management system so it doesn’t have to guess. We’re still playing Pin the Tail on the Donkey, but calibration tells the battery management system, “Ahem—the donkey is over that way.”

What does “full charge” and “full discharge” mean?
Here’s the nub of the problem. How do you update those “full charge” and “full discharge” flags? The above-linked page at Battery University puts it this way:

To maintain accuracy, a smart battery should periodically be calibrated by running the pack down in the device until “Low Battery” appears and then apply a recharge. The full discharge sets the discharge flag and the full charge establishes the charge flag. A linear line forms between these two anchor points that allow state-of-charge estimation. In time, this line gets blurred again and the battery requires recalibration. Figure 2 illustrates the full-discharge and full-charge flags.

laptop-battery-calibration-charge-chart

Figure 2: Full-discharge and full-charge flags. Calibration occurs by applying a full charge, discharge and charge. This is done in the equipment or with a battery analyzer as part of battery maintenance.

Two things to notice here: (1) According to this page, it’s not enough to drain and then charge—you have to start by charging it fully. And, (2) “full discharge” is ambiguous. The figure seems to indicate that the full-discharge flag will be set at 10%. But thinking about that makes no sense. The whole problem that’s trying to be solved is that the % reading is inaccurate. How does one know when they’ve drained the battery “below 10%” if their battery reading is inaccurate? They don’t! For example, we’ve installed numerous batteries that eventually gave a “low battery” warning and then continued to work full steam for hours on an indicated battery charge of 1%. In short, “calibrating” a battery by draining it “below 10%” is futile. It’s like giving someone a car with a broken fuel gauge and telling them to drive until the tank is ¼ full.

What may actually be going on here is, the graph above is meant to show the actual chemical state of the battery and not the % indicated in iOS or MacOS, which can be quite different. User-facing software may indicate a battery charge of near zero when the actual chemical state of the battery is closer to 10% charge. This is done deliberately to prevent the battery from ever discharging below a safe level where battery damage may occur and the system may not be able to reboot. In short, the system always shuts itself down with a little bit of charge left in the battery as a safety measure, but it doesn’t show that reserve amount to the user.

> The low battery warning is purely implemented in the device software as a means to prevent possible data loss whilst using it and is completely independent of the battery management system.

> Even if you let your device run until it shuts down automatically due to lack of battery charge the battery management system will still keep the battery charge at a high enough level to prevent damage to the battery pack.

> The battery gauge that you see displayed on the screen is basically the amount of USEABLE charge the battery has and NOT the absolute total charge of the battery. This is why you can change the battery low warning to any percentage you choose – it’s not there to protect the battery (that’s done automatically by the battery management system) it’s there to give you enough time to save your work or connect the charger.

> Therefore, if you intend to calibrate your device battery you need to let it run down past the warnings until it shuts down automatically BEFORE recharging, otherwise you may not discharge the battery sufficiently to register the battery management systems discharged flag, thus rendering your attempt to calibrate the battery incomplete.

 

Remember there are two different (but connected) systems at play, the battery management system, which monitors and controls the health of the battery and the software user interface (and associated power control software), which reads data from the former to display an indication of battery charge status and level and respond to various flags (like shut down when the discharge flag is set).

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Laptop Hinge Repair in Irvine – PC Expert Services

Laptop Hinge Repair in Irvine – PC Expert Services

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Broken Laptop Hinge?

Laptop hinges break off either from the back of the LCD cover or from the bottom chasis. It is a very common problem on almost any laptop brand and model. 

Once the laptop hinge breaks off then damage can sometimes also crack the LCD Screen or damage other components or wires on chasis base unit. 

A broken hinge laptop can be fixed in many different ways, depending on what is really broken.  Most of the time the laptop hinge can break off from the top cover and the broken top cover needs replacing.  However, you might need your hinges replaced too, depending on your laptop and the severity of the damage. 

How Much Does it Cost to fix a broken laptop hinge?

Prices vary by model (Submit the Online Drop Off Form for a FREE REPAIR ESTIMATE), but it absolutely makes sense to fix. Computers are expensive machines, so don’t let a busted hinge turn your laptop into a desktop!

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Why Laptop Hinges Break?

Laptop hinges are basically are made of metals mainly iron or steel or alloy material. The only function is to add a physical connection between the Screen panel and the base body. In the base body, it gets fitted with 2 or 3 screws into the metal stud which is shielded in the plastic body ( generally all laptop bodies are made of plastic material ). Now touchpad gets fitted with the base with the screws beneath to set the entire body properly. When we start using a laptop and flip it off – its base screws start getting loose and thus creates a gap between base and touchpad. In the meantime, due to dust and moisture, these metal hinges start getting tight. Now in this situation, whenever you start opening the laptop, it starts pulling the base body and after a while, it comes out the base. If you are not lucky enough, it will damage the display cable/ camera cable or can even damage the motherboard. Laptop bodies are made of plastic not with metal like MacBook’s and hence breaking chances are very high.

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Product Description HP Stream Pro 11 G5 – 11.6″ – Celeron N4000 – 4 GB RAM – 64 GB eMMC – US
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Operating System Win 10 Pro 64-bit – English
Processor Intel Celeron N4000 / 1.1 GHz (2.6 GHz) / 4 MB Cache
Memory 4 GB DDR4 (provided memory is soldered)
Storage 64 GB – eMMC
Optical Drive No optical drive
Display 11.6″ WLED 1366 x 768 / HD
Graphics Intel UHD Graphics 600
Input Device ClickPad
Keyboard US
Integrated Webcam Yes
Networking 802.11a/b/g/n/ac, Bluetooth 5.0
Battery 2-cell
Security Trusted Platform Module (TPM 2.0) Security Chip
Dimensions (WxDxH) 11.8 in x 8.2 in x 0.7 in
Weight 2.78 lbs
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